Feria de San Isidro: where Andalusian tradition meets Madrid

This week it’s that time again in Madrid: the Feria de San Isidro! When I first found myself in the middle of it last year, I thought: wait a minute… isn’t this just an Andalusian party in disguise?

And yes, this month we’re diving into Spain’s inland. After my story about Cruces de Mayo in Córdoba, this one is about a celebration in the Spanish capital.

There were horses, flamenco dresses, churros, and sevillanas. But also: people in suits, frayed hats, and… Madrileños who act like it’s in their DNA to dance all day to the rhythm of a paso doble. And you know what? Maybe it actually is.

A tribute to the patron saint of Madrid

San Isidro was a humble farmer from the 12th century, known for his divine connection with water and workhorses. Today, he is the patron saint of Madrid, and around May 15, a whole week of festivities kicks off in the capital. Whether you’re religious or not, it’s impossible not to be swept up by the vibrant atmosphere.

From procession to feria

The official procession is impressive — with locals in traditional attire and a statue of San Isidro being carried through the streets. But it’s really the atmosphere afterward that makes it special: park picnics in the Pradera de San Isidro, open-air performances, stalls with sweets, and dancing everywhere. Truly everywhere.

People dress in mass in chulapo and chulapa costumes, complete with polka dots, roses, and shoulder capes. Even children get into the spirit and dress up. The city transforms into a blend of folklore and lively celebration.

A feria, but with a Castilian twist.

While the ferias in Andalusia are full of sevillanas and sherry, San Isidro carries a bit more of that Castilian pride. Less flashy, but just as expressive. Think: wooden fairground carts, ancient dances, thick churros with chocolate, and plenty — a lot — of mantones de Manila (those embroidered shawls with fringes that you usually only see in flamenco shops).

Tip for those on the Costa:

If you’re not in Madrid but still want to experience the spirit of San Isidro, many other cities with strong Madrilean roots host their own smaller celebrations. Check the local agendas for markets, music, and even small processions — you might just stumble upon a bit of that Castilian charm closer to home.