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When I heard my Spanish neighbours talking about la noche más mágica del año last June, I thought: oh, there must be a solar eclipse coming up, or maybe something astrological. Until they all started collecting wood, and on 21 June I suddenly found myself in the middle of a beach party with flames, music and wish rituals. Welcome to Noche de San Juan. Fire, sea and symbolism The Night […]
Last week, as I strolled through the village market in Teulada, I saw it happen: an older woman with a cloth bag and a critical eye held up a courgette as if she were inspecting a diamond. She turned it in the light, gave it a gentle squeeze, sniffed it, and finally nodded approvingly at the market vendor. He smiled. “Muy buena esta semana”, he said. And she paid — […]
It started with an elbow to the ribs. Not mine. I was innocently walking down a narrow street in Dénia, thinking I had just enough space to pass someone. But the people in front of me weren’t moving. We’re in Spain, so they’re strolling. In waves. No straight line, no rhythm, no clear tempo. When I tried to move left, a lady in a polyester floral dress swung her arm […]
This week it’s that time again in Madrid: the Feria de San Isidro! When I first found myself in the middle of it last year, I thought: wait a minute… isn’t this just an Andalusian party in disguise? And yes, this month we’re diving into Spain’s inland. After my story about Cruces de Mayo in Córdoba, this one is about a celebration in the Spanish capital. There were horses, flamenco […]
Cruces de Mayo? Honestly? I first thought it was a wedding. Or a local procession. Or maybe a school project with a slightly overenthusiastic flower budget. A friend had invited me for a few days in Córdoba. “Just a little spring getaway,” she said. I had no idea that, last week, just before Mother’s Day, I’d end up right in the middle of a floral cross. Decorated with ribbons, candles, […]
Earlier this year, I celebrated my first Spanish Father’s Day — in March — while the rest of Europe wasn’t even thinking about it yet. By now, I’ve learned: holidays here don’t just fall on different dates — they feel different too. And Día de la Madre, or Mother’s Day, is no exception. This Sunday, I expect to see the same scene as last year at the market in Jávea: […]
Heads up: the day after tomorrow, Thursday, is 1 May — and that means in Spain: shops closed, bureaucracy quieter than ever, and not a plumber in sight. Last year, on 1 May, I tried to pop into the supermarket in Valencia — only to find the doors shut. And not just there. The bakery, the pharmacy, the ferretería, even the local Chinese takeaway — all closed. That’s the power […]
When you think of Easter in Spain, you probably picture the processions first. Especially after last week’s story. Long lines of people in robes, drums that make the streets tremble, clouds of incense that overload your sense of smell, and wooden statues carried through the city like sacred trophies. And yes, that image is absolutely right. Well… for a few days, at least. Because once the final tear has rolled […]
If you’d asked me a few years ago what I associated with Easter, I probably would’ve mumbled something about chocolate eggs, brunch at my parents’ place, and maybe a trip to IKEA on Easter Monday. But since moving to Spain, Easter has become something entirely different. Here, Semana Santa doesn’t start with bunnies — it starts with drums. Big ones. The kind you feel pounding in your chest. Semana Santa […]
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