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There is a kind of silence that exists only in this month. Not the silence of emptiness, but the silence of breathing out after a busy season. The summer crowds have gone, the sun burns more gently, and in November the narrow streets of Spanish villages once again carry the rhythm of everyday life.
I notice it every time I walk through the old quarters of Benissa or Gata de Gorgos. Terraces are no longer filled with tourists, but with locals who recognise one another again. Cafés smell of coffee instead of sunscreen. And somewhere in the distance you hear the crackle of a fireplace — the sound with which village life begins anew each year.
In summer, Spain is loud, full of gestures and voices. But when November arrives, the country turns inward. Shops close earlier, markets are smaller, and conversations in the street last longer again.
I speak to María, an older woman I know from the weekly market. She tells me she hardly leaves her house in summer. “Too busy, too hot,” she says. “But now the village smells like what it is meant to be.” And she is right: it is the scent of wood smoke, olive oil, orange peel and damp earth.
The silence of November is not emptiness — it is space. Space to listen to the murmur of a fountain, the click of heels on cobblestones, or the clatter of shutters in the wind.
There is something about the light this month. It has lost the sharp glare of summer and becomes softer, almost shy. In villages like Jávea, Guadalest or Parcent it settles on white façades as if trying to comfort them after the rush. Shadows grow longer, colours deeper.
It is the perfect light for doing nothing. For sitting on a bench and watching someone walk their dog, or an old man sweep his doorstep. These are the small rituals in which the real Spain reveals itself — not in monuments, but in everyday habits.
Cafés play soft Spanish music, children cycle home without hurry, and everywhere you hear the clink of cups and teaspoons. Spaniards seem to know a secret we have forgotten in the north: that life does not need to be productive to be valuable.
Perhaps that is what makes these villages so special in November: the absence of urgency. Time loses its edge, just like the light. Everything is allowed to breathe.
When I walk through the streets of Moraira in the late afternoon, I see smoke curling up from a chimney. Someone has just lit the fire. The air smells of wood and sea salt, a combination that exists nowhere else.
A cat sleeps on a low wall, and a little further on someone is playing guitar softly. I stop to listen, because there is nothing else to do — and that feels like the greatest luxury of all.
Spanish villages are in no hurry to impress. They know that beauty reveals itself naturally, if you stay long enough to look.
Written by: Eva van Rijn
authenticity culture November silence spain village life villages
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