Fresh fish! From market to table on the Costa Blanca

Where to go, what to look for, and what to do with it

You follow your nose to the fish market. Not that pungent smell of fish that’s been sitting too long, but the salty, briny freshness you remember from childhood days by the sea. It’s still early — just before the midday sun hits the stalls. Styrofoam boxes creak, knives flash, voices call out in local dialects. Here at the Costa Blanca, fish still comes straight from the sea. And if you know where to look, you’ll find gold with scales.

From Dénia to Santa Pola: where to buy

The Costa Blanca still has several fish markets where fresh catch is brought in daily. Two that stand out:

Dénia: On the edge of the old town, just behind the harbour, you’ll find the lonja where fishermen arrive each morning (except Sundays) with everything from red prawns to squid. Around 11:30, the auction clock starts — you can bid or simply buy.

Santa Pola: Things are done on a larger scale here, but with just as much charm. The market sits right on the quay, and the atmosphere is grittier. Think: fishermen’s boots, pallets of ice, and Spanish grandmothers who know exactly which dorade is worth buying today.

What’s fresh? (And what only looks like it)

You don’t spot fresh fish by the brochure — you recognise it with your senses.

• Look at the eyes: they should be clear, not cloudy.
• Feel the skin: it should be firm and smooth, with no soft spots.
• Smell it: fresh and briny. No sourness or that telltale “old fridge” scent.
• Check the gills: they should be red to pink, not brown.

And don’t be afraid to ask. Sellers are often proud of their catch, and if something was landed yesterday, they’ll usually tell you straight. Especially at smaller markets or stalls.

What should you be looking to buy?

Here are a few types of fish that do particularly well here — in terms of flavour and availability:

• Dorade (dorada): versatile and mild. Perfect on the grill or roasted in the oven with a bit of fennel and lemon.
• Sea bass (lubina): firm, delicate, and a favourite among chefs.
• Red prawns (gamba roja): delicate and pricey, but if you know how to cook them right (a quick sear, no fuss), they’re pure magic.
• Squid (calamar or sepia): great on the plancha or in rice dishes. Needs a bit of cleaning, but it’s well worth the effort.
• Mackerel (caballa): oily, full of flavour, and often overlooked.

And then… into the kitchen

Fresh fish from the Costa Blanca doesn’t need much. Good olive oil. Sea salt. Maybe a wedge of lemon or a pinch of pimentón. That’s really all it takes — especially if you picked it up that very same morning.

My favourite? A whole dorade from Dénia, rubbed with thyme and garlic, grilled over the barbecue. No sauce, no fuss. Just fire, fish, and silence. Well — silence until the first “mmm” at the table breaks it.