The scent of chestnuts: Spanish autumn dishes on the Costa

It starts with a smell. Not of sea salt or sunscreen, but something earthier. As I walk through Alicante’s old town, a sweet, smoky scent rises from a steel drum. Chestnuts. They hiss on the grill, their shells cracked open, edges blackened. A man scoops them into paper bags with a wooden spoon. It’s the first sign that summer is truly over. Regular readers of this column know I have a soft spot for seasonal cuisine — and now it’s time for Spain’s autumn dishes.

Mediterranean autumn

The air feels fresher now — softer, too. The sun hangs lower, the shadows grow longer, yet the light stays golden. Where autumn in the Netherlands feels like a grey veil, here it’s a warm blanket. The markets shift in colour: pumpkins in every shade of orange, clusters of figs bursting with sweetness, and mushrooms that smell of damp soil. November isn’t a month of farewell, but of slowing down.

Spanish autumn dishes

On the Costa, autumn is tasted in dishes that seem simple, yet carry a deep, soulful flavour.

Crema de calabaza — pumpkin soup — gets an extra touch of warmth here from a drizzle of orange oil and a pinch of smoked paprika. For something heartier, locals add chickpeas or roasted almonds.

Rice with mushrooms is another autumn favourite. Instead of risotto, many Spanish cooks use bomba rice, which absorbs flavours more deeply. A handful of fresh herbs, a splash of white wine, and a few minutes resting under a cloth — that’s the secret.

And then, of course, there are the roasted chestnuts. Score them with a cross, roast for twenty minutes in the oven at 200 °C, and serve with coarse sea salt. Or slice them into a stew with lamb and rosemary — they add a soft, nutty note unlike anything else.

At the market

At Alicante’s Mercado Central, the air smells of citrus and mushrooms. A vendor tells me the best chestnuts come from Galicia, where the trees grow on mossy, misty slopes. “They should just start to crack, but not open,” he says, holding up a handful. A few stalls down, freshly picked artichokes from Murcia and bundles of spinach still warm from the field complete the scene.

Taste it yourself

• Walk along the Explanada de España in Alicante this November. Beneath the palms, street vendors stand beside glowing drums filled with chestnuts — warm, smoky, and tucked into paper cones that warm your hands as you stroll.

• In many restaurants along the Costa, you’ll now find Arroz con setas y romero — a seasonal twist on paella made with wild mushrooms and fresh rosemary.

• Or pick up pumpkin, mushrooms, and chestnuts at the market and create your own autumn menu — simple, yet rich in scent and color.

The taste of calm

Maybe that’s why I love this time of year. The sun sets earlier, yet the tables stay set longer. There’s no rush — only aroma, warmth, and the quiet moments between each bite.

Every bite tells a story — and in November, what you taste most is calm.